Many people—most?—prefer to visit northern Botswana in the dry season. Those in the know, however, love the green season for its unusual experiences. Like the Chobe River flowing backwards.
The source of the river is in the Angolan highlands. And depending on rainfall patterns in different watersheds, at times it seems to flow westwards from its usual eastern direction.
That’s because in peak flooding (March-May), the Zambezi River pushes water upstream into the Chobe through their confluence at Kazungula. It looks like the Chobe has changed direction but it’s actually water from the Zambezi temporarily dominating the system.
It’s not unique, but it is rare. That it’s a quadripoint is unique, though these days it’s generally agreed there are two tripoints (Botswana-Zambia-Namibia and Botswana-Zambia-Zimbabwe) just 150 metres apart.
Elephants amble across the road in Chobe National Park.
Legendary Game Viewing
There are other things to know about Chobe. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton had their second wedding here, for example: they got married in the Kasane court, and honeymooned at Chobe River Lodge, which had only recently opened.
And it’s famous for its spectacular sightings and river cruises. So, we went off to see for ourselves what the buzz was about.
A SAFARI.COM insider tip: the wet months are the best for birding and for babies. The flora is lush, the grasses high and sweet. The migratory birds are in town, and the trilling and singing and chirping can be deafening.
The Zambezi teak are in bloom and their pink-purple flowers splash across the landscape.
Everywhere is abundance, which means animals are dropping their foals and cubs; birds are hatching, elephants are cavorting and hippos are snorting. And they are all fat and happy, their coats glossy.
Chobe is in Kaza—the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area—the largest conservation area in the world. It stretches from Angola and Namibia in a wide band all the way through Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
It’s a significant project, opening up ancient animal migration routes, boosting conservation through community participation, and working to mitigate human-wildlife conflict.
We flew into Livingstone, in Zambia, where you can have a leisurely cruise on the Zambezi, do all the adrenaline activities you can imagine, and in the dry season, swim in the Devil’s Pool.
A SAFARI.COM insider tip: the Victoria Falls are best seen from the Zambian side when they’re in full flow. But to really do them justice, see them from both sides. The border crossing on each side of Victoria Falls Bridge is quick and easy.
A view of the Victoria Falls through the rain forest on the Zambian side.
Livingstone to Kasane Road Trip
It’s a short road trip to Kasane, in Botswana (just over an hour and you cross the Zambezi River via Kazungula Bridge). We’ve designed an itinerary starting in Livingstone with this in mind. (If you’re strapped for time, our fly-in safari gives you the best of Chobe National Park.)
It’s a one-stop border crossing, but before you’re allowed into Botswana, you need to walk through the disinfectant tray—with all your pairs of shoes—to help prevent the spread of foot-and-mouth disease.
Don’t make light of it: foot-and-mouth disease affects cloven-hoofed animals and it can wipe out bovine populations, including buffaloes, which are a virus reservoir.
Kasane is something of a frontier town. It’s dusty but all heart, and is always full of travellers heading from here to there and everywhere. You have to pass through Kasane several times if you’re going to safari in Kaza properly.
A lone giraffe surveys its territory in Chobe National Park.
You Can Go On A Day Trip
Chobe day trips from Livingstone and Victoria Falls are a roaring business, and it surely is one way of experiencing the magnificence of Chobe National Park. But it’s not enough time to do it justice. Instead, take a few days and stay at Chobe Game Lodge. Now is the time to book our four-day itinerary and stay at Ngoma Safari Lodge. It’s on promotion, with 33% off.
For a very different environment in the same park, come west with us to the Savute Region.
Wherever you do go, prepare to be wowed. Chobe is famed for its large herds of elephant—up to 85,000 in the dry season, when most of them hang out along the river. It also has lion, leopard and buffalo. There are too many antelope species to list, but mention must be made of Chobe bushbuck, a subspecies of bushbuck that is considered endemic to the Chobe region.
Also expect to see sable, puku, red lechwe, sitatunga and tsessebe. The river is filled with big pods of hippos and some of the biggest crocodiles in Africa.
Afternoon storm clouds gather while we cruise along the Chobe River.
The Cuteness Factor
We watched a wobbly baby hippo trot after its mom, so newly born it was the size of a staffie. And speedy little impalas bounce after their mothers, tiny mongooses, snuffly little warthogs. Best of all, though, were the baby elephants, just discovering their trunks and not yet sure what to do with them.
Crocodiles lazed in the sunshine along the river banks, or floated on the water, silent torpedoes of tooth and scale.
On our river safari, we puttered around Sedudu Island, watching the herons, African fish eagles, kingfishers, carmine bee-eaters and African darters, but no African skimmers this time. There are more than 450 bird species on the river.
Hippos lumbered around the island, too. They come out of the water during the day here, but keep close to it in case a threat sends them racing back in.
As for cats, we saw lion. There are cheetah and leopards, and smaller cats like caracal, but they eluded us. Game drives are like that. Sometimes you see the Big 5, sometimes you don’t. But you can be sure there will always be something fascinating to see.
A lion lazes in the shade in Chobe National Park
Start Planning Your Safari with Confidence
There’s magic to be found in Africa—and at SAFARI.COM, we’re here to help you find it, whether for you that’s in Chobe or the Delta, at Victoria Falls or South Luangwa, or wherever your heart takes you.
Let our expert team craft something extraordinary. We’ll guide you with heart, insight, and insider knowledge every step of the way—before, during, and long after your journey.
Ready to explore? Email us at [email protected], hit the WhatsApp button above, or call us toll-free on 1-888-SAFARIS (US & Canada).
