Quiet, unspoiled and blissful—this is what most of us think of when we need some downtime. Exactly what I was looking for, and exactly what I found in the remote north of Zimbabwe.
Matusadona National Park is known for four things: Operation Noah, its swimming elephants, its croc-eating lions and its lake. That lake is Lake Kariba, the world’s largest man-made reservoir by volume.
Oh, there are also the drowned forest, the wide-open spaces, the low tourist numbers and the serene cruises. And so it was that I found myself on a tiny, four-seater plane from Harare, bound for Fothergill Island’s private airstrip.
Bumi Hills Game Drive
Bird’s-eye Views of Landscapes and Big Game
Small bush planes are aerial safaris. Coming in to land, the super-skilled pilots know exactly how to show off the richness of the area you’re arriving in.
My pilot flew me along Sanyati Gorge, giving a top-notch view of its steep cliffs, lush greenery, channels and pools. It’s a spectacular place, filled with buffaloes, birds and crocodiles, lions, leopards, elephants and antelope.
The gorge is historically significant as a trade route and spiritually important to local communities. It’s good for hiking, birdwatching and boat cruises. But it is rugged.
The flight from Harare took just over an hour, and from Victoria Falls, it’s a scenic 1 hour and 40 minutes—perfect for travelers on the move. With the Six-Day Sweet-n-Short Kariba & Victoria Falls Safari from SAFARI.COM, you can experience the very best of both regions in one seamless journey.
Kariba’s elephants like to play and swim in the lake
A Safari Stage for Africa’s Wildlife
Fothergill Island is a far more elegant affair, settled on the banks of Lake Kariba and wrapped by trees and bushes. It’s also swish, stylish and the tents’ open-sides act as natural aircon.
It went like this: land, eat, game drive. We were rewarded by the site of many lumbering elephants settling into their late afternoon rhythm.
Vast herds of impala did their impala thing—inquisitively, warily watching, jumping straight up into the air, scattering suddenly and swiftly, leaping over bushes in their haste to get away. Impala really are the most graceful of antelope
Sanyati Gorge cuts through the mountains to empty the Sanyati River into Kariba.
Bush Walks: Get Up Close with Elephants
A walk the next morning brought us much closer to those incredible elephants. A bush walk can be edge-of-your-seat stuff, but it’s always, always exhilarating.
And educational. That morning I learned about elephant bedrooms. Elephants do lie down to sleep, despite what you might have heard. But it is quite tricky to get that bulk up and down, so they look for small rises where they can sleep at an angle rather than flat.
They’re easy to spot once you know what you’re looking for, their bodies, ears and trunks leaving tracks on the soil. Experience it firsthand. Let us arrange your unforgettable stay at Fothergill Island now.
Lake Kariba is known for its mega herbivores.
Swimming Elephants & Croc-Hunting Lions
About that lake… it’s a safari law that you go on a boat cruise for a watery vantage point for watching hippos yawn and wallow, elephants splash and play—and swim.
Yes, Matusadona’s elephants swim, for fun and to cross to richer grasslands, their trunks acting like snorkels. There’s other unusual animal behaviour: the park is known for its crocodile-hunting lions, with the big cats predating on crocs of up to 3.5m while they bask on the banks.
It’s not for want of other prey—impala are everywhere—they simply seem to like crocs.
Lions laze in the sun in Matusadona National Park.
Rustic Luxury & Scenic Crossings at Bumi Hills
From Fothergill Island it was a long boat crossing to Rhino Safari Camp on Rhino Island.
It’s rustic, but my two nights under my lapa were two of the best sleeps I have ever had. Completely open to the elements, other than a thatch roof overhead from which hangs a mosquito net.
Another boat crossing brought me to African Bush Camp’s luxury Bumi Hills Safari Lodge. It’s secluded on a forested hill, overlooking the floodplain. I was enchanted by the bobbing lights of the kapenta rigs stretched out across the inky black water.
Ready to experience the magic of Bumi Hills Safari Lodge? Let us create your unforgettable journey.
My last twilight was spent on a boat in the dead tree forest, those ghostly witnesses to the past. The guide gave me a gin and tonic, which went untouched. All my senses instead drank in the incredible sunset. The water gently lapped against the boat as we slowly returned to camp, tomorrow, to head back to my workaday world.
Bumi Hills Safari Lodge has a paradise island vibe.
Start Planning Your Safari with Confidence
Whether you’re dreaming of a guided bush walk or a scenic boat cruise, our expert team is here to bring your African safari dreams to life. With insider knowledge, heartfelt service, and personalized support, we’ll be with you every step of the way—before, during, and even after your journey.
If you’re ready to explore, email us at [email protected], hit the WhatsApp button above, or call us toll-free on 1-888-SAFARIS (US & Canada).
What’s In A Name
Kariba Gorge: the large, natural gorge through which flowed the Zambezi River.
Kariba Dam: the wall built in the gorge, between Zambia and Zimbabwe.
Lake Kariba: the reservoir that was formed when the dam was built.
Kariba: the Zimbabwean town built for construction workers on the lake’s dam.
Operation Noah: the effort, from 1958 to 1964, to rescue more than 6,000 wild animals from the rising waters after the dam was built.
